Crossing the Jordan

Traveling in an occupied country, alongside an occupied people, is a challenging endeavor. Palestinians holding foreign (non Palestinian) passports and international travelers ("tourists") like myself are separated from those with Palestinian ids while on the Jordanian side of the border. One realizes this at a particular moment. Perhaps while at the Jordanian border control area, one questions only where one is to go and what to do. There are swarms of Arabs around buses, and yet I am directed to a bus that is apart from the swarms and to this bus I go. Aboard I hear a mix of Arabic and English, and it is familiar. Everyone has a passport. And then we cross the infamous Allenby Bridge that separates Jordan and Israel. And then the moment comes. We pass buses stopped on the Bridge, directly before the Israeli entrance. And the buses are full, windows un-openable and engine off, of waiting Palestinians. How long do they sit there? I've heard sometimes they wait days. And we pass them by, with our passports and air-conditioning. The end.

Crossing is challenging. The Israelis are amazingly capable and organized and efficient...at most things. But not at Allenby. And it took a little while, but I realized 20 minutes into the experience that it's intentional. There was no reason that the process be so chaotic, and yet it was terribly chaotic. I've been through various other border entrances to Israel, and none with the same exhausting disorganization. Oh, I'm forgetting to add something: Palestinians are forbidden by Israeli law from using those other crossings. Allenby is the infamous Palestinian crossing. By the hot and stuffy busload. Click--it all makes sense.